A computer power supply is almost as mysterious as the phrase, “I'm fine just leave me alone.” I mean, what does that even mean? If I actually leave you alone to go play video games, will I be making a huge mistake and like pay for it later. I mean if you were fine wouldn't you want to talk to me like you normally do and if you're not fine when it blows up later, will it be your fault for not communicating clearly or my fault for not understanding? Please tell me what you want.
Anyway, while I am not qualified to help you understand women, I can help you choose the right wattage of power supply for your PC.
Now that calculator does add a bitter fudge factor for stuff like the aging of your components overtime so I think the calculation is a little bit too much but it's best not to try to squeeze under that and use something insufficient. That could result in unexpected shutdowns and wear and tear over time.
Now some people will naturally go completely the other way and see four hundred watts in the calculator and figure, well to be safe I will just get a 1200-watt power supply but that is not necessarily right either.
First, your wallet will be emptier than it had to be and second your system efficiency will actually be lower than if you bought something more appropriate. A power supply operates optimally above about 15 to 25 percent of its total capacity that means that your system will actually run more powerful than it has to and your power bill will cost a bit more. This sounds terrible while sometimes it makes sense. I am one of those people who went overkill on my power supply but it is because it has fan-less zero decibel mode for completely silent operation when I am not fully utilizing my PC. An example of this is Cooler Master Silent Pro hybrid series, which does not even turn on the fan until it reaches 200 Watts of load. You can trade inefficiency for quiet, if you are into that.
Step 2 is finding a power supply that matches the wattage a calculator tells. There are two ways that the capability of a power supply can be expressed as peak WATTAGE or continuous WATTAGE. If a power supply is rated in continuous, then that is good. If it is rated in continuous with a separate peak rate then that is good too. If it only has a peak rating, then do not put it anywhere near your system because there is no real standard for what peak means. Can it handle out for an hour, a minute, or a week, a split second? We do not know.
If your power supply is rated through peak wattage not continuous, do not even consider buying it.
This leads us to the final step (Step 3), which is picking a power supply official quality. It is important and this is not one of those used car salesperson moments. A power supply is a serious piece of equipment not a fashion statement. Unless it is from a trusted manufacturer with all the appropriate safety certifications and/or get the seal of approval from reputable power supply review site, I’m not going to touch it. A power supply can fail spectacularly, triggering the premature or even immediate failure of other component in your system and your warranty will not cover you because of relying on a potato to provide safe and stable power to your PC. I thought even the worst-case scenario; a fire caused by a power supply can burn down your house.
I personally recommend Coolermaster, Corsair, and Cougar PSUs because I tried and tested tem and so far, they have not failed me.
